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Mar 06 2015

FF: Floor Stop Location

Category: Fixed-it Friday,StopsLori @ 12:39 am Comments (21)

This is more of a how-do-you-fix-it? photo than a Fixed-it Friday photo, but Carri Holmes of Allegion sent me this photo to find out if there is a recommended mounting location for floor stops.  The current location of this stop is definitely not working – it is too close to the pivot and it’s damaging the door sweep.  It could potentially damage the sweep regardless of where it is mounted, but because it only allows the door to open to 90 degrees (or less?), the door is coming into contact with the stop more frequently and with more force than if the door was allowed to open past 90 degrees.

Where would you typically mount a floor stop?  I’ve never seen a guideline for this, have you?

Floor Stop

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21 Responses to “FF: Floor Stop Location”

  1. Terry Vaughn says:

    There is no good place for a floor stop when the door don’t swing next to a wall. If you put this one where it belongs then you have a trip hazard. I would install an overhead track type stop mounted on the door and Jamb.

  2. Bill Liberty says:

    anywhere at least 2/3 of the way away from hinge, I aggree with comment above

  3. lach says:

    I’ll take some liberties on what is already on the door. You could re-template the closer (if top-jamb mount) to open to 180° and set a FS444 next to the storefront (assuming the door doesn’t open into a column or extrusion). Tripping hazard would be minimal. If it’s a parallel arm get a stop arm. If top jamb mount and it does open into a column or extrusion you could get a drop plate and a surface mounted OHS. So many applications could be done. Not all very cost effective though.

  4. Glenn Sundbeck says:

    In agreement with both statements above.

  5. Bill B says:

    Would 2/3 the width of the door or more away from the hinge centerline be considered an industry standard?

  6. Jack Ostergaard says:

    From what we see in this photo the only solution is a OH stop. I hate putting rubber bumpers out doors they never last but one or maybe two winters. Raised pedestal type such as IVE FS444 are needed if surface applied sweep or door bottom is use to avoid conflict. Had one project were we fabbed a combo mud scrapper/door stop. It was big enough it catch ones eye and avoid being a trip hazard.

  7. Joel Luper says:

    I agree with Bill Liberty above. If it would not otherwise impede egress travel, I would put a decorative rail at the stop to prevent its potential as a tripping hazard.

  8. Bobby says:

    As far as not damaging the door sweep, why not use a floor stop that has some clearance between the ground and the beginning of the stop itself. Of course, this will still leave you with a tripping hazard as outlined above…

  9. Jim Hooker says:

    Much less of a trip hazard at this location…

  10. Lapointe says:

    install the door stop 4 1/2 inches away from the wall, the same way it would be to stop the handle from hitting the wall.

    A nice fancy raised stop would be good to avoid damage to the sweep.

    Adjust backcheck on the closer to avoid damage to the pivot.

  11. David Barbaree says:

    I’ve used the Ives FS18s (shown in the pic) mounted in the masonry or concrete wall as a very heavy duty wall bumper where a wall is within reach. Mounting a closer to the maximum swing is always best unless it has a CUSH arm. Bollards with heavy rubber D-style dock bumpers work very well and last a long time where a stopping wall bumper is not feasible.

  12. MartinB aka Lauxmyth says:

    The photo is almost as bad as it gets. I could care less about the sweep. Those things are surface mounted and can be replaced in no time at little cost. However, when this door reaches the end of its swing, its momentum will torque OUT the pivot. A good hard push or some wind and you lose the whole door! Walk that door to the end of its travel and push against the stop and I will bet you can see the force put on the pivot.

    I do not know the code on this but run with a stop needing to be within 6 inches (15 cm) of a wall to not be a tripping hazard. My thinking is if you walk along a wall, your arm and shoulders generally keep your feet that far from the wall. As far as the point of door contact, I use 1/2 the door width as a rule since a fast moving door has the stop acting at the centre of mass and the torque at the hinge is mostly gone at contact.

    Door closer has to be turned up as high as you can with as much backcheck as possible. Remember that slowing the door is based on 3 things:
    1. Air damping. So the door has to push air and the more air it pushes and the more time you have it travel, the more speed is lost.
    2. Closer tension. As you push out the door, you store the energy in the springs so if the tension is up, it does not gain speed as much.
    3. Backcheck. The closer will start to ‘fight’ a fast opening.
    All these have limits based on accessibility rules but do what you can. I see closer set for speed when a bit more power should be added too.

    My 3 cents Canadian.

  13. Slade Riley says:

    Last Architect I worked with on a hospital will never spec out floor stops. It stems back to his school days when a classmate put a styrofoam cup over the top of a raised stop and told him to go kick the cup. Broke his foot. Now he never will spec one. I prefer his approach. OH stop or CUSH arm closer all the way. Just my 2 cents

  14. Bill Partington says:

    If in doubt, refer to Adon Brownell’s book “Taking the mystery out of Builder’s Hardware”

    • Lori says:

      I wonder if the answer is in Adon’s book. I just packed mine up to move. Do you have a copy?

      – Lori

  15. Lee Echols says:

    Depends on the environment as well. In School applications or anywhere doors are typically abused, we try to use Overhead Stops and Floor stops together. This prevents the door from twisting if opened with too much force and will increase the life of the opening.

  16. Gord says:

    Hi Lori,

    Quick question. Is there any guidelines as to when to use a low rise vs high rise door stop? Is it HM vs wood doors?

    Thanks as always for your help.

    • Lori says:

      Hi Gord –

      The standard undercut is usually about the same for hollow metal doors and wood doors, so I think the stop height should be based on the type of flooring. For something like vinyl tile that leaves a large gap under the door, I would use the floor stop with the larger rise. For thicker flooring that runs through the door opening, you need the smaller rise. This can be tough to coordinate, so you could specify/supply the smaller rise with a separate riser that can be used or not, as needed. The Ives catalog says that the selection of the stop is based on whether the door has a threshold (smaller rise when there’s no threshold, larger rise when there is a threshold), but you could have a door with no threshold, vinyl tile, and a 3/4″ undercut, and the stop with the larger rise would be the correct choice even though the lack of a threshold would suggest that a smaller rise is correct per the Ives description.

      How’s that for a long answer to a quick question? 🙂

      – Lori

  17. Bryan says:

    Floor stops no more than 8″ from wall and best to be less than 6″ from latch edge of door. Always template stop arm closers and OH stops to the max degree possible, add backcheck to the closer to allow the hydraulics to absorb some of the energy before hitting the stops. Anchor pivots or reinforcing pivots are highly recommended with stop arm closers and OH stops.

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