Thank you to everyone who left suggestions for the name of the new Friday series. I’ve settled on Fixed-it Friday! With all of the creative hardware “fixes” out there, I think this series could run until I retire (don’t worry, that’s not for about 20 years unless I win the lotto). If you see an FF in your travels, send me a photo!
Here’s the newest creative solution, an improvised lock guard sent in by Lee Francisco and Richard Gilbert of DH Pace.
You need to login or register to bookmark/favorite this content.
If this lock is working properly, it appears to be of the “anti-carding” type. Regardless of the exposed latch between the door and the frame, it should be nearly impossible to slide the latch back. Am I correct?
If installed/working properly, yes, the lock is equipped with the auxiliary deadlatch which prevents the latchbolt from being pushed in when the auxiliary latch is in proper alignment with the strike. Often the problem is that the door is not aligned correctly or the strike has been modified, so the entire latchbolt including the auxiliary latch falls into the hole in the strike, and the deadlatching feature will not work in that case. I don’t know what the story is with this lock, but I see the installation problem a lot.
Nice field on the fly engineering!
HM doors/frames that are reverse bevel and arent concrete filled always have this problem..
There is nornally enough flex to spread the door/frame to allow the deadlatch to become inactive or sometimes even create enough gap that the latch disengages.
Very creative!
New product-armor front cum lock guard. New prep for door mfr.
well, if the reveal is proper at 1/8″ on the lock side there would be little to no clearance left for the ansi strike plate to ‘function’ as a LOL, latch guard. but, hey! if there’s that much clearance, the ‘tech’, (term used loosely) could be better served to shim the hinges, or at least stack the strike plates and then use a real latch guard, one with a cutout for the lever rose. that lever reminds me of the general lock brand. a grade one with clutching is a real nice one for NOT a LOT of money.
Well, creative, I’ll give ’em that…
What needs to happen is to have the deadlatch properly align with the strike, have the reveal between the latch face and the strike face minimized, 1/8th inch max and THEN, put a REAL latch guard on it ! THAT, coupled with
a CLUTCHING outside lever will do a real service to keep transients from prying open the door to sleep off
their “problems”.
With a “clutching” grade 1 lever $75.00 wholesale, a 3″x11″ latchguard w/cutout for lever rose $12.00 wholesale, those steel doors/frames for the utility/electrical/telecom closets at the back of strip malls were pretty much
“bullet-proof” ! I pedaled those combos all over town and if the bums ever found out who confounded them, I’m
sure they’d put up a Wanted Poster for this Locksmith ! LOL !